Aburiya Kinnosuke

This new favorite of Japanese businessmen provides the spectacle of Megu on a much more intimate scale. Various delicacies arrive on personal charcoal grills (shichirin), or in hotpots with flames which magically disappear when the meal is ready. Amazingly, Aburiya offers this authentic experience at a fraction of Megu's cost. Last night, a friend and I enjoyed an impressive 7-course feast for only $30 each!

Since the menu was divided into so many categories, we decided to try as many different preparations as possible. We chose a hotpot, a shichirin, a chef's special, a tofu dish, a grilled vegetable, a tsukune (chicken meatball) and an eel dish.

After a cup of roasted green tea, we began with the black sesame tofu. This pudding-like dish, which we ate with wooden spoons, was made especially flavorful with the addition of rich soy sauce. Then, the personal grill was delivered to us with a healthy portion of tarako, or cod roe caviar. The waitress helpfully informed us that the caviar would change color when it was ready to be eaten, and indeed it turned from bright orange to light pink.

Soon, a tray of strips of lemon-zested fresh-water eel was served. For those of you more accustomed to the barbecued glazed eel (unagi) at sushi bars, this eel was white and slightly chewy. There were about 10 strips of the delicious fish on our tray.

The chef's special, a foil-wrapped salmon, was the star of the evening. The experience of eating this tender, moist fish could only be described as sensual. We tore it apart and ate every last bite. We accompanied the salmon with a grilled head of garlic with sweet miso jam.

Then it was time for an oniony chicken meatball, which arrived, interestingly, with a bowl of steamed egg for dipping. (Are you going to ask "which came first?") We'd had a choice of "salt" or "teriyaki" for the chicken, and were glad we'd chosen the latter, as the meatball was glazed with a tasty sweet soy sauce. It was so large that the waitress was able to cut it into 8 piecesa.

We'd also ordered an eel hotpot (there were three choices: eel, mushroom or pork). For most of the evening, I anxiously glanced at the flame, wondering when the treat would be ready. Then, after becoming lost in the enjoyment of the other dishes, I happened to look over to see that the flame had gone out! We pulled off the scorchingly hot lid to reveal steaming glutinous rice covered with sweet barbecued eel. A small plate of sansho pepper and shiso leaves was provided for seasoning.

We would've liked to have tried the sushi specials (fatty tuna, amberjack) or a fried dish (or dessert!), but our stomachs protested. However, I have a feeling that we'll be back at Aburiya Kinnosuke very soon.

Aburiya Kinnosuke: 213 East 45th St., (212) 867-5454.